BEST DISHES EATER EDITORS ATE THIS WEEK: APRIL 22

The editors at Eater LA dine out several times a week, if not per day, which means we’re always encountering standout dishes that deserve time in the limelight. Here’s the very best of everything the team has eaten this week.

Bulgogi ssam bap at Gu Jip in Gardena

One of my dad’s favorite dishes was ssam bap, a humble meal that features a freshly washed tray of crisp leafy greens and vegetables for wrapping meats and fish. Typically old-school Korean spots serve the dish, and our family loved to try them at a restaurant in Las Vegas called Lee’s KBBQ. Here in Los Angeles, the dish oddly isn’t that easy to find which is a shame because the deconstructed setup makes it fun to assemble and eat. Gu Jip, which translates to “the place,” serves a variety of ssam bap with a well-balanced ssamjang, or house dipping sauce made with fermented bean paste and aromatics. We ordered the beef bulgogi, balanced by near caramelized onions and still sizzling on a small cast iron skillet. To eat, wrap the meat with lettuce, blanched cabbage, perilla (ggaenip), or even seaweed, add a dollop of ssam jang, and maybe a pat of steamed white rice. David Chang’s Momofuku might’ve popularized the word “ssam” for a mainstream audience, but humble neighborhood Korean mom-and-pop restaurants like Gu Jip have been serving the best version of ssam bap since the beginning of time. 15435 S. Western Avenue, #109, Gardena, CA, 90249. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Hot dog at Walt’s Bar in Eagle Rock

The first warm weekend of every year in LA marks the beginning of what I like to call Walt’s season. It’s the time of year when after a Sunday hike, or a trip to the farmers market, I settle onto the patio of Walt’s in Eagle Rock for an ice-cold beer and what is LA’s best hot dog. The hot dogs at Walt’s live behind the bar in a warmer, glistening as they sit in front of a heat lamp alongside a case of pretzels and other bar snacks. As I order one, I watch the barkeeper pull out a pillowy bun, nestle in a dog, and then drizzle it with ketchup and grainy mustard. The first bite is somehow better than I remember it — the meat is rich and salty, while the ketchup and mustard bring a nice balance of sweetness and spice. Though I’m usually more of a craft beer person, my go-to at Walt’s is a Hamm’s when the bar has it. A side of Zapp’s potato chips makes for an ideal accompaniment. 4680 Eagle Rock Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90041. — Rebecca Roland, associate editor

Intestine noodles at Kin Craft Ramen & Izakaya in Fountain Valley

The most underrated spot under Kei Concepts’ buzzy umbrella of Orange County restaurants is Kin Craft Ramen & Izakaya, or it might just seem that way compared to Vietnamese breakfast all-star Nếp Café and Japanese Italian fusion purveyor Ini. But don’t overlook this seemingly low-key gem because superb dishes are lurking all over its daytime menu. While the fragrant tom kha noodle soup with its abundant shrimp, bay scallops, and squid is supremely slurpable, and the chicken karaage is worthy of burning one’s mouth, it is the stir-fried spicy intestine noodles that made me want to return stat. The chubby udon noodles arrived smoky from the wok and chock-full of choice morsels, including small intestine and honeycomb tripe. A heap of fresh green onions and a sprinkling of togarashi complemented the offals just right. 16185 Brookhurst Street, Fountain Valley, CA 92708. — Cathy Chaplin, senior editor

Tonnarelli all’astice at Terra in Century City

It seems unlikely that one of LA’s best Italian restaurants is a chain on top of a Century City shopping mall, but here we are with Terra at Eataly. The walk through Eataly is always a sight — from the expansiveness of fresh seafood to the vegetables, wine, coffee, and other goods on display. When ascending the emporium’s circular steps, stop to inhale the scent of Terra’s wood-burning grills and stoves. On a full night, Terra is buzzy and loud but is delightfully mellow during the second Coachella weekend. The patio is perfect for those who enjoy people-watching while dining or drinking at the central patio bar. Though the fornello Pugliese is a filling and wonderful feast of regional skewered meats, the tonnarelli all’astice made my night. The pasta is house-made and uses Canadian lobster meat with roasted tomatoes and a lobster sauce. The lobster is slightly sweeter than its Maine counterpart and is such a lovely addition to perfectly cooked pasta. Go with someone who isn’t particularly chatty and simply enjoy the tastes and sights. 10250 Santa Monica Boulevard, Century City, CA, 90067. — Mona Holmes, reporter.

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